​Born on the 23rd of April 1525… I know that’s a strange thing to say about a Grand Cru vineyard or Chateau, but indeed this is a claim made by the Chateau itself; Chateau Haut-Brion. One of the most famous and revered Chateaux in Bordeaux- and the world at large.
The land and the Chateau have changed hands several times from family to family. This is not surprising when one considers the age of the establishment and the changes that have occurred in the world over all the centuries. From the original owners Jean de Pontac and Jeanne de Bellon who birthed the first iteration of a joint Haut-Brion property in the 16th Century to Joseph de Fumel who was guillotined in 1794 during the French ‘Reign of Terror’ to the current owners via the Dillon family and Clarence Dillon’s grandson Prince Robert of Luxembourg, the Chateau is steeped in History.
 
I was in the company of my four fellow Team Wine Kenya teammates namely: Victoria Mulu Munywoki, Kenyalynn Odennyo, Janet Kang’ethe and Soraiya Ladak. So basically, I was in great company! Having travelled to Bordeaux to take part in the annual World Blind Tasting Championship organized by La Revue du Vin magazine we had our list of chateaux that we would have loved to attend and Chateau Haut-Brion was definitely on the list. 

​We drove from Blanqefort in the Medoc to Chateau Haut-Brion in the Pessac region of Bordeaux, after being picked up by our very capable ‘taxi driver’; owner and CEO of The Wine Box Kenya - Dan Davies. He was our link and introduction to the Chateau, and patron of the day.
You can feel the historic energy as soon as you drive in through the gates. Obviously, there have been several buildings erected on the property over time, and some are newer than others. However, there is an in extricable energy that lives over the land; almost like spiritual annals.
As we drove in, there was still the glistening dew on the gravel, the grass and the beautiful porcelain like limestone of the building tiles. The air was crisp but with a warm breath to it. It was an uncharacteristic sunny day which was very welcome to us as the day before, we had been caught in a deluge that left us drenched in the center town. There were broken umbrellas and everything- but that’s a story for another day; back to Chateau Haut-Brion…

​We were welcomed by a friendly team of representatives ready to show us the winery and take us through the wines. Joining us on the visit were two gentlemen, wine connoisseurs and there on separate trips. Each coming as a fan to pay homage to the great Chateau. Our hosts led us into a quaint little room. Once a chapel, but now converted into a viewing room and reception. Here, we were able to watch an introduction video informing us of the history of the chateau and the vision that they have of the future, presented by the afore mentioned Prince Robert of Luxembourg himself. 

​After this, were led to a grand room for the fun part! The tasting. We were about to find out the reason for the attraction to these storied wines.
The room, like many old rooms in French historic buildings, feels like it could tell a hundred stories, more even. Wooden floor boards in intricate geometric patterns, cast iron candelabra style chandeliers, wooden moulding and panelling all very beautiful. But it’s the artwork and old iconography in gilded golden frames against the brilliant royal blue wall tapestry that really stands out.

​On a large table in the middle of the room, sat the goods.
Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Grand Cru Classe 2017
Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 2017
Two exquisite wines that I honestly truly enjoyed. It would be easy to be swayed by the history and the circumstance (and the price!) around the wines, but in such cases, one has to separate oneself from the supposed hype.
Iron fist in a velvet glove. It sounds trite to describe them as such, but it’s definitely the experience.

​My sisters in wine would agree as I believed that we all thoroughly enjoyed the wine and experience as a whole. So much so that one of us forgot her electronic gadget once we left the Chateau. Possibly as a ruse to have an excuse to go back! Unfortunately, it didn’t work and they dutifully had it sent to us. Ah, well! We’d just have to live with the memories…
And that my dear friends, was our time at Chateau Haut-Brion. An unforgettable experience. Should you ever find yourself in Pessac, do yourself a favour and visit. And should you do, please raise a glass and remember me, your wine friend. Salut!

If I asked you to go to the Kenyan coast and gather over 60 people on a rainy Tuesday morning to sit in a class and learn you would probably consider it a difficult feat.  And, it is. But there’s a cheat code. You could promise to teach them about some of the best wine. This was the premise behind the WOSA Cap Classique event held at the Tamarind Village this December. 

This is the fourth iteration of this event and each time it’s a welcome endeavor.  WOSA is an acronym that stands for Wines Of South Africa; a body that educates about and promotes South African wine.
This year, as it has been every year before, was a success.  The event targets the hospitality and general wine trade industry and has a two-pronged approach. 

Part 1
This is a structured sit-down class. The attendees were Waiters, Food and Beverage managers, General managers and other industry professionals.  This year it was led by Melissa Mwende a certified wine sommelier and wine educator. Through her capable guidance the students of the day were able to learn the difference between still and sparkling wine and most importantly what South African sparkling wine is. This was supported by a Q and A with the WOSA Kenya co-ordinator and fellow sommelier/educator Wanjiru Mureithi alongside sommelier/ Team Wine Kenya Member Adero J. Achola. Mathome Mbatha the WOSA Africa representative was on hand to present the achievement certificates.

Part 2
An industry cocktail event that allows the attendees to sample the available Cap Classique in the market. To say that this is a cocktail event to delight in, is an understatement. From old favourites like Jourdan to new stars like IL Geco, Cap Classique flowed freely!

Now, I cannot provide the second, experience but I can most definitely give you a rundown of part 1. Ensuring that you too can enjoy Cap Classique like a pro! This lesson will be much more fun with a Cap Classique to accompany it, so you are free to run out and get one. We’ll wait.

Cap Classique is the term for sparkling wine that is produced in South Africa using the classic traditional method (methode Champenoise- Champagne style method). What does that mean? Well, it means that the most arduous and painstaking steps were taken to produce the bubbles in your glass. Those sparkly, pearlescent beads of joy are actually created in the bottle from which you are pouring!

Made in the beautiful Western Cape of South Africa, Cap Classique can be made using a variety of grapes; any grape actually. This particular fact means that Cap Classique can be as complex as the winemaker’s imagination allows. Following a dedicated hand harvested crop of grapes, the winemakers gently press the grapes for the purest juice possible. This juice is then fermented into a still wine. How now do the bubbles happen? Well, the winemaker puts the still wine into a bottle ( Yes, THAT EXACT BOTTLE that you are holding). They then add what we call liquer de tirage into the bottle as well and seal it with a crown top. This is a combination of yeast and sugar. A secondary fermentation occurs but because the bottle is sealed, the carbon dioxide that is a natural by-product of fermentation, is infused into the wine! When that fermentation is done, we’re left with the delicious bubbly that we enjoy. We are also left with dead yeast though. This dead yeast has flavours that can be imparted on the wine and for this reason, the wine maker lets the wine sit with this it for a minimum of 12 months by South African Law. Most winemaker let it sit longer. This is called – fancy wine term alert- ‘resting on the lees’. They do this with the bottle upside down. Once the winemaker is satisfied with the lees aging the neck of the bottle is frozen and the crown taken off. The pressure in the bottle pushes the yeast plug out. Of course we lose a little bit of the good stuff in the process, so the bottle ( Yes, still that bottle you have), is topped up with more wine and sealed immediately. 

Cap Classique ranges from bone dry to succulently sweet, so you know there is something for every palate.
What is the best occasion to enjoy Cap Classique? Anytime! You do not need a special event to enjoy Cap Classique. Whether it’s a brunch affair, a pre-dinner drink or just a pleasurable reward after a long day, Cap Classique is always a plus. How should you serve it? Well chilled and happily.

I encourage everyone and you in particular to try the different Cap Classiques available in the market and find a favourite or five! And when you do, please raise a glass for me, your wine friend, 'Gesondheid'!

​It wasn’t my first time to Le Cerque this time in April of 2024. I had been there before on the invitation of the proprietor Damiano Scalici. Going back this time, felt like going home in more ways than one.
 
The first time was a visit. Everything new, trying to take everything in at once, coupled with it being a very short stay (stop-over would be a better term).
 
Le Cerque is a breathtaking bed and breakfast that produces wine and olive oil and is what is referred to in Italian as an ‘agriturismo’. Agriturismo is a portmanteau that puts together the words Agricolta (agriculture) + Turismo (tourism). So, basically tourism based around agricultural practices. And Damiano and his team do it greatly.

​How do I get there? Well, I usually am coming from Rome. So, if you are in Rome or can fly to Rome then the journey is halfway through. Le Cerque is located Umbria which is in the southcentral part of Italy along with Lazio where Rome is. From Rome I take a quick 1hr train ride to Orte, and from there it’s a 1hr car ride to Collezone.
As you approach the B and B, you can see the house atop the hill looking down at the rest of the town. The winding road that leads up to the farm is lined with pine trees, brush and nature all around. Depending on the time of day you get there, you may be greeted by the two estate dogs Romero (the feisty one) and Thibault (the quiet friendly one). Once on the property, you can actually take in the true beauty of it. The grounds are romantically rustic  and the bushes and other fauna well-manicured without being too pristine.

​In the mornings, breakfast is always ready and laid out, with something for everybody, including sweet home baked treats by the inhouse chef- Regina. Her tarts and cookies are the best. The interior of the home is well designed with beautiful architecture and stunning fixtures. There are works of art from around the world, France, Ghana, Senegal, Somalia most of which Damiano collected from his travels while working with The World Food Program. Oh, I forgot to mention, before he began making wine, and his other endeavors, Damiano was part of a Nobel Prize Laureate team!
Let’s talk about the wine!

On this 23 acre piece of property, Damiano has several vines including Merlot, Cabernet sauvignon, Sangiovese and Grechetto di Todi (not to be confused with Grechetto di Orvieto). He has always had a dream of becoming a winemaker and his dream is now a reality. Of course my wine tasting escapades in this little paradise aren’t confined only to one place but if it’s a structured tasting you want, there is a quaint little cellar perfect for up to 10 people.
The Sangiovese is an easy drinking wine for all occasions. It bears the name of the estate - Le Cerque
Then there is the Coldimezzo which is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet sauvignon. A bold wine but with the softness of Merlot being predominant.
His top of the range red is a Cab-Merlot blend called Manu, named after his daughter. A full bodied wine with a higher percentage of Cabernet sauvignon. The wine was young and full of the fruit, acid and tannins required for it to age even longer. I had this bottle the next day and it had really opened up. ​The Grechetto – Muade, is a gently fruity wine with good acidity and is a perfect aperitif .
Then there is the Passito Rosso del Ghiandaio sweet fortified wine. Which I tried with some dark chocolate onion confit and foie gras and was delighted.

​Before I forget! I’ve told you already about the doggos. But there are other animals onsite some kept and some wiley unwanted guests. There are some wild boars that used to break into the property, but the fence was reinforced, so you don’t have to worry about them anymore. There’s also fox that tries to get in the hen-house at night, but it’s a girl fox so… we’ll give her a pass, wink 😊.
Then there are my darling, donkeys. Every time I go up there one of them is pregnant and I think they are up to six now! They are so cute and I’m sure you will enjoy their company as much as I do should you ever choose to visit.

Le Cerque is one of my favourite places to go, and I hope you one day get to experience its pleasure. And if ever you do, remember me, your wine friend. Salute!

What happens when you cross a rugby player with a winemaker and biodynamic practices? You get Gerard Bertrand of course! Currently the most well known winemaker in Southern France. He was recently named 'Best Winegrower in The World 2023' by industry publication The Drinks Business. Undoubtedly due to him running a completely biodynamic farming operation and his putting terroir above all else. 

What's Biodynamic winemaking? Glad you asked. I'll answer that in a subsequent article. But we're getting ahead of ourselves. Back to Gerard Bertrand.

 No, we did not get to meet 'The Man'. One day... What we did, is imbibe his well made wine in the presence and under the guidance of Francois and Henri his representatives in Africa. This, in the beautiful space of The Wine Box at their Cellar Door outlet in Karen opposite the Hub mall. They organized this tasting to support Team Wine Kenya ahead of the World Blind Wine Tasting Championship in France.


Sidebar: I got there quite early because I'm a very punctual person, but mostly because I got the wrong time. During this whole competition preparation our team captain Victoria Mulu-Munywoki has been giving us earlier times to factor in lateness (aka African Time). I always come in at the ascribed time like a fool. Loool. This time it worked out for me however, because I stumbled in on a Louis Latour tasting that Dan Davies, the proprietor, kindly offered. Don't mind if I do...

​Ok, ok.. Back to our tasting.

We started off with a palate cleanser of  the Gris Blanc. A delicate rose made from the blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache noir. This refreshing fresh style wine was the perfect entry point to the rest of the evening.

We then moved on to the Orange Gold paired with a gourmet cheese platter. This is an orange style wine. Which means that it was fermented with the grape skins unlike regular white wines. They do this via whole bunch maceration so both skin and stalks are used. This adds complexity and texture to the wine. The wine is a blend of 6 grapes with Grenache Blanc and Chardonnay being the most and even though Muscat is only a small percentage (5%), it is the most expressive in the wine with notes of flowers and orange peel. This ancient method of winemaking is becoming a bit of a niche trend but still remains a rarity. So, if you can, grab a bottle of Orange Gold as it's limited edition.

​

​Next up was the Heritage Coteaux De Narbonne Blanc. A fresh wine made from Sauvignon Blanc. The acidic notes of grass, flowers, sage and citrus paired perfectly with the starter. The head chef, Chef Misha had prepared a smoked salmon carpaccio with citrus and lemon emulsion served with smoked cream cheese. The deliciously oleaginous dish with the brightness of the wine was a great choice.

At this point, we filled in both Francois and Henri on local Kenyan traditions. They both have spent considerable time in West Africa so we had to level the playing field with a quick rundown. They had a wine masterclass for us so we gave them an impromptu Kenyan customs masterclass. As you can see it was a very give and take evening.

​

​The main course was a hearty dish of beef short ribs with BBQ glaze and jalapeno, mango, coriander chutney.
For this we had the Heritage Kosmos Rouge. A classic blend of Grenache, Syrah and mouverdre. Full bodied with soft round tannins, you can quite easily tell the terroir influence on this wine. The bright red fruits with spice and garrigue was perfect for the meat which needless to say was delicious as evidenced below...


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This beautiful tasting was capped off with dessert of course! Fresh mixed berry compote with hints of mint and dollops of creme fraiche topped with crunchy meringue.  Heritage Cremant de Limoux Brut Rose was the wine for this course. Traditional made sparkling at a fraction of the price of Champagne.
Apparently, as Francois brought up, sparkling wine was invented by Benedictine nuns in Limoux! How many people are going to lay claim to sparkling wine?! I never heard this one before so I'll have to do another deep dive into this sparkling story.... Meanwhile, ckeck out the 'Champagne Myths Debunked' article that I previously wrote.

​Champagne! A wine so exquisite that it has thousands of stories written about it. Unfortunately for us, not all of them are true. A lot of the tales are fanciful but that is to be expected from this fantasy inspiring bubbly. One thing we cannot debunk is the deliciousness and elegance of Champagne, but there are one or two myths that we can shed light on.
​
MYTH 1: 'Champagne' was invented in France
Champagne WASN'T 'invented' or 'discovered' in France!
It was invented in ENGLAND where merchants purchased flat wine from France and added molasses to referment it. They also developed the strong coal fired glass bottles, and corks to hold the product . What is called the Methode Champenoise was first written in down in England in 1662. No wonder; they are at this time, still the largest importer of Champagne globally.

MYTH 2: Dom Perignon invented/ discovered Champagne
Nope (see above)! What he did do is devise the blending of grape varieties and he DID invent the wire cage (muselet) that keeps the cork in firmly. Also, the famous exclamation "Come quickly, I am drinking the stars" or any other variation, wasn't uttered by him. This is from an ad campaign in the late 19th century; Dom P died in 1715.

MYTH 3: The Champagne saucer or coupe was fashioned from a mould of Marie Antoinette's breast
Wrong again. It was first manufactured in 1663 (in England AGAIN!). Marie A's reign was from 1774-1793.

The lies! The lies!

But, let me leave you with a little morsel of an interesting fact. The bubbles we love and admire in fizz would not be possible in a smooth perfectly clean glass. It is the microscopic specks of dirt and lint that allow bubbles to form. So dirt is the real hero of this story...

Cited source: The Book of General Ignorance by John LLoyd and John Mitchinson.

It’s that time of the year again. The time we all gather under the WOSA umbrella of wine. This time, we’re back at The Radisson Blu Hotel in Upperhill.
If you are not in the know, here’s a small recap… Every year since 2016, the Wines Of South Africa- a non profit South African organization aimed at promoting wine for export- holds a two prong event in Kenya. Barring 2020 when Covid locked us all down. And even then, WOSA captained by Wanjiru Mureithi and Matome Mbatha engaged us with regular social webinars where we met virtually with producers and other wine industry professionals to drink Chenin, Pinotage and Cap Classique.
The first leg of the event is an all day educational event where, in a structured environment, one learns about wine and especially South African wine and its terroir. This is essential for anyone that works in the hospitality industry and would like to bolster their continuous education.
The second, the fun one - ahem- is a 3 to 4 hour cocktail event aimed at and attended by people in the wine trade (importers, distributors, sommeliers, bar and restaurant owners you get the gist).
There, you are all caught up!

All jokes aside, this evening event while more relaxed than the former is quite the important one. The setup consists of an exhibition of wines from different suppliers both currently in the market and those looking to break in. This is where choices are made by decision makers based on actual experience of the wines.
New exhibitors get the opportunities to present and receive feedback on their offering and also to make important contacts to import their wine into Kenya. For those suppliers already in the market, like the Wine Shop and Viva Global, it presents an avenue to remind consumers of their current holdings and ensures that they are top of mind when wine purchases are being made.

In a world that is getting ever so smaller, and with imports of wine coming in from every region of the wine producing world, it is a very crucial role that WOSA plays in ensuring that South African wine does not get overshadowed. I personally appreciate the effort put in. As Kenya keeps growing as a wine consuming market, it is encouraging to see that the producers, importers and WOSA put as much stock in us as we do in them.
The South African government along with WOSA has put its money where its mouth is and is really supporting the growth of the wine industry locally. In fact, with the quality wine on display, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend or even stock South African wine.

And, of course ,it is our little industry reunion, so I’ll leave you with more pictures. Next time you reach for a glass of wine, make it a ripe Chenin or crisp Cap Classique from south Africa. And think of me, your wine friend. Bajabule!

"I don't drink wine from a screw-top bottle." We've all heard someone say that. We've probably been the someone that said that. Probably because we associate cork sealed bottles with prestige and quality and screw-tops with inferior quality. But why though?! And does it even matter?

Short answer - no.
Long answer - maybe?

Ok. This is a huge topic and I'll try to make it as not nerdy as possible. Wish me luck. But once done, you will know practically everything about wine closures so stay with me!

First thing first. 
Does cork denote better quality wine? No. 
I think the reason for the link is that old world (European) wine still uses cork in the vast majority of its wine production. And because we tend to look to France, Italy etc. as the blueprint for wine quality, we instinctively think cork is tops. Not only is cork not necessarily tops, not all bottle corks are the same. Much of the time, it has little to do with quality and mostly to do with economics, sustainability and predictability.

Wine production is a painstaking and arduous process, from planting, to harvest to actual vinification, and the last thing a producer would want is to put their precious juice into a bottle only to be let down by the closure. Can you imagine?! At the same token, a producer also has to decide the price point and the aging ability of their wine. Does it make sense that one would use a closure that is good for 10yr aging yet the wine is an everyday wine meant to be drunk young within 2yr? Not really. 

Put a Cork in It !!!
Cork is a natural substance. It grows on specific trees in Portugal and Spain (a little in Italy and Algeria). 
It has been the traditional closure method for centuries because of its relatively tight seal and ability to allow oxygen contact and aging. Being a natural substance though, it is susceptible to variability, fragility and the dreaded cork taint inducing TCA; not to mention it isn't cheap.
Not all natural cork is the same though. We have the following types of corks:
Natural One Piece- This is the traditional cork which is made by cutting and punch shaping one piece of cork bark into the shape we all know and love. This only works if a standard size is required.
Colmated- A natural one piece of medium grade with the pores of the cork filled with cork powder allowing it to exit the bottle easier.
Agglomerated- Both standard and micro agglomerated corks are made by taking cork particles and basically gluing them together under pressure. This results in a strong cork that can be used for quick consumption wine and even age worthy wine. Also if  you need a larger closure, like for say a Champagne bottle, then these corks allow for size manipulation. The recent HELIX cork, developed by Owens Illinois LLC in conjunction with Amorim, is another example as to how the manipulation of agglomerated cork can lead to innovation in wine closures. This cork has grooves in it that align with grooves in the neck of the bottle to allow one to twist the cork out and also easily reseal it. 
Technical- These are agglomerated corks with natural cork affixed on either one or both sides of the cork
Synthetic - These are NOT corks but they are cork shaped, so... Made using polythene. It's a plastic sleeve with plastic foam within that can either be left exposed or covered completely.
*Bonus: The type of cork closure that is made with a straight shank of cork affixed on a  wider cap designed to be pulled out by hand is called a Bar Top cork. These are the kind found on Port and Sherry bottles.


Screw It !!!
While the trees are not endangered, obviously production of a natural substance has its constraints (see above), which is why Australians leaned to screw-tops. After a period of being relegated to being a secondary market for natural cork, Australian winemakers made the push to move to screw cap in order to have more stability and predictability in their access to closures. Taylors wine is credited for leading this charge and now, over 90% of Australian and New Zealand wine is under cap. Penfolds is the only brand that still remains a major cork user, but even they only cork a percentage of their bottles.
There was always conversation about the age-ability of the wine under cap, but this is changing as there are now caps that allow for controlled oxygen transfer.
They may not have the romaticism of the cork but at least they are easy access!
*Bonus: The official name for a screw top is STELVIN; developed by French company Le Bouchage Mecanique and first used in the 70's by surprise, surprise the Australians.

Put a Cap!
Aside from the two major closures above there are two other ways to seal wine bottles.
One is the glass Vinoseal which is a glass top, shaped like a conical cork that fits snuggly into the neck of the bottle. Personally, I think that it looks very chic, but let me tell you, opening them is not a walk in the park. A friend once showed me how, but trust me, it takes practice.
There is also the old crown bottle cap. You know the ones used on glass soda bottles or beer? Yes those. They pretty much offer the same benefits to the sparkling wine as they do soda or beer - keeping the fizz in!
 

AND an honourable mention to the Muzzle or as the French would say, Muselet. This is the wire cage that comes wrapped tightly around Champagne and other sparkling wine corks. It may not be top of mind when thinking of wine closures, but its job cannot be overlooked as it is what prevents corks from flying out of the bottles and spilling good bubbly (oh, yeah, and possibly injuring people). The round metal top bit of the cage is called the plaque and hobbyists that like to collect them are called Placomusophiles!

So next time you are getting your bottle of wine, don't agonize over the closure, trust me the producer already did that and picked the best one. From me, your wine friend, just enjoy the wine ;-)