DOWN HOME IN UMBRIA: PART 1 - LE CERQUE

​It wasn’t my first time to Le Cerque this time in April of 2024. I had been there before on the invitation of the proprietor Damiano Scalici. Going back this time, felt like going home in more ways than one.
 
The first time was a visit. Everything new, trying to take everything in at once, coupled with it being a very short stay (stop-over would be a better term).
 
Le Cerque is a breathtaking bed and breakfast that produces wine and olive oil and is what is referred to in Italian as an ‘agriturismo’. Agriturismo is a portmanteau that puts together the words Agricolta (agriculture) + Turismo (tourism). So, basically tourism based around agricultural practices. And Damiano and his team do it greatly.

​How do I get there? Well, I usually am coming from Rome. So, if you are in Rome or can fly to Rome then the journey is halfway through. Le Cerque is located Umbria which is in the southcentral part of Italy along with Lazio where Rome is. From Rome I take a quick 1hr train ride to Orte, and from there it’s a 1hr car ride to Collezone.
As you approach the B and B, you can see the house atop the hill looking down at the rest of the town. The winding road that leads up to the farm is lined with pine trees, brush and nature all around. Depending on the time of day you get there, you may be greeted by the two estate dogs Romero (the feisty one) and Thibault (the quiet friendly one). Once on the property, you can actually take in the true beauty of it. The grounds are romantically rustic  and the bushes and other fauna well-manicured without being too pristine.

The view from Le Cerque as it sits atop the hill Colezzone

​In the mornings, breakfast is always ready and laid out, with something for everybody, including sweet home baked treats by the inhouse chef- Regina. Her tarts and cookies are the best. The interior of the home is well designed with beautiful architecture and stunning fixtures. There are works of art from around the world, France, Ghana, Senegal, Somalia most of which Damiano collected from his travels while working with The World Food Program. Oh, I forgot to mention, before he began making wine, and his other endeavors, Damiano was part of a Nobel Prize Laureate team!
Let’s talk about the wine!

On this 23 acre piece of property, Damiano has several vines including Merlot, Cabernet sauvignon, Sangiovese and Grechetto di Todi (not to be confused with Grechetto di Orvieto). He has always had a dream of becoming a winemaker and his dream is now a reality. Of course my wine tasting escapades in this little paradise aren’t confined only to one place but if it’s a structured tasting you want, there is a quaint little cellar perfect for up to 10 people.
The Sangiovese is an easy drinking wine for all occasions. It bears the name of the estate - Le Cerque
Then there is the Coldimezzo which is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet sauvignon. A bold wine but with the softness of Merlot being predominant.
His top of the range red is a Cab-Merlot blend called Manu, named after his daughter. A full bodied wine with a higher percentage of Cabernet sauvignon. The wine was young and full of the fruit, acid and tannins required for it to age even longer. I had this bottle the next day and it had really opened up. ​The Grechetto – Muade, is a gently fruity wine with good acidity and is a perfect aperitif .
Then there is the Passito Rosso del Ghiandaio sweet fortified wine. Which I tried with some dark chocolate onion confit and foie gras and was delighted.

​Before I forget! I’ve told you already about the doggos. But there are other animals onsite some kept and some wiley unwanted guests. There are some wild boars that used to break into the property, but the fence was reinforced, so you don’t have to worry about them anymore. There’s also fox that tries to get in the hen-house at night, but it’s a girl fox so… we’ll give her a pass, wink 😊.
Then there are my darling, donkeys. Every time I go up there one of them is pregnant and I think they are up to six now! They are so cute and I’m sure you will enjoy their company as much as I do should you ever choose to visit.

Romero's babies

Le Cerque is one of my favourite places to go, and I hope you one day get to experience its pleasure. And if ever you do, remember me, your wine friend. Salute!